This past Sunday my wife and I had the opportunity to meet with Will Bucklin and walk Old Hill Ranch Vineyard and taste through some new releases and a few selections from the Bucklin cellar.
Will Bucklin has been a vintner for over 35 years, working in France, Australia, Sonoma, Mendocino and Oregon. Old Hill Ranch is a site to behold. Founded by William McPherson Hill in 1851, it is on a very short list of the best historic vineyards in Sonoma County. The vineyard came into the Bucklin family when it was purchased in 1981. The Ancient block on Old Hill consists of over 30 grape varieties. The true definition of a field blend.
Bucklin Winery was founded in 2000 by the four Bucklin siblings: Arden, Kate, Ted and Will. Bucklin produces several Zinfandels and Grenache, a Cabernet Sauvignon, a White Field Blend and a white wine, Compagni Portis.
Will and the two of us sat at a picnic table outside of a barn surrounded by a variety of old winemaking and farming contraptions. We were poured the current releases including the 2024 Mixed Whites, 2024 Bambino, 2024 Ancient Grenache and the 2023 Ancient Field Blend. These wines are all exceptional but for me the highlights were the Mixed White and the Ancient Field Blend. The Mixed White is lush and opulent with vibrant fruits and acidity. I ended up leaving with six bottles. The Ancient Field Blend is red fruited with tremendous acidity and concentration. I had previously purchased this from the mailing list and it will be a stellar wine for years to come.
Will also poured the 2012 and 2015 Ancient Field Blend for us. I didn’t take formal notes but both of these wines are bright, vibrant and aging beautifully. I have always been in the camp of drinking Zins before they reach a decade of age but clearly the Ancient Field Blend will become an exception to that rule. Hopefully you were lucky enough to secure some of these bottles in the recent Bucklin cellar sale.
I didn’t take formal notes but the 12, 15 and 24 Ancient Blend are all 95+ point wines.
The conversation around the picnic table eventually landed on the current state of the wine industry and how that affects Zinfandel and historic vineyards in particular. Will was clearly concerned as it is hard to overlook the nearby vineyards in Sonoma that have been ripped out. The recent retirement announcement by Mike Officer and subsequent sale of Carlisle Vineyard only adds to his uncertainty as it pertains to Zinfandel in particular. Nonetheless, I sensed a touch of optimism from Will in regards to the future of Bucklin and Old Hill Ranch. Will is mentoring his nephew in the winemaking practice and more importantly in the stewardship of the estate. I got the feeling that he is comforted knowing the Bucklin legacy will remain intact.
Will is a character, a tremendous winemaker and embodies everything I treasure in Zinfandel. Old Hill Ranch is only rivaled by a handful of Sonoma vineyards. If your not already, do yourself a favor and sign up for the Bucklin mailing list. If this post is not encouragement enough, Will is close to printing a vine by vine map of the Ancient Block that will be included in an upcoming mailer.